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Egyptian food and what to eat

Start with koshari, the unofficial national dish of rice, lentils, pasta and chickpeas, at about 30–60 EGP a bowl. Breakfast is ful (slow-cooked fava beans) and ta'ameya, Egypt's green fava-bean falafel. Drink bottled water, not tap water.

Egyptian cooking is filling, built around bread and vegetables, and the street food is cheap and very good. Most dishes are halal, and alcohol is only served in licensed venues.

Dishes to try

Koshari

The unofficial national dish: rice, lentils, macaroni, chickpeas, crispy fried onions and a sharp tomato and vinegar sauce. In Cairo, go to Abou Tarek or Koshary el-Tahrir. Expect around 30–60 EGP a bowl.

Ful medames

Fava beans cooked slowly with olive oil, lemon, cumin and garlic. It is the standard Egyptian breakfast, eaten by scooping it up with baladi bread.

Ta'ameya (Egyptian falafel)

Made with fava beans rather than chickpeas, which is why it is bright green inside. It often comes coated in sesame seeds.

Molokhia

A green, slightly sticky soup of jute leaves with garlic and coriander, served over rice with chicken or rabbit.

Mahshi

Stuffed vegetables: vine leaves, cabbage, courgettes and peppers filled with seasoned rice.

Hawawshi

Spiced minced meat baked inside flatbread, a kind of Egyptian meat pie.

Fattah

Layers of rice, crisp bread, garlic and vinegar sauce and meat, often lamb. It is a dish for celebrations.

Feteer meshaltet

A flaky, many-layered pastry, eaten savoury with cheese or meat, or sweet with honey.

Umm Ali

Egypt's favourite pudding, made with pastry, milk, nuts and raisins.

Basbousa and konafa

A semolina cake and a shredded-pastry dessert, both soaked in syrup.

Drinks

  • Karkadeh: hibiscus tea, hot or iced.
  • Sahlab: a warm milk drink with cinnamon and nuts, mostly drunk in winter.
  • Sugarcane juice (asab): cheap and sweet, sold at street stalls.
  • Egyptian tea (shai): strong, with or without mint.
  • Turkish coffee (ahwa): you choose the sugar level when you order.

Where to eat

  • Abou Tarek (Cairo): the famous koshari house.
  • Felfela (downtown Cairo): Egyptian classics in a tourist-friendly setting.
  • Zooba: modern Egyptian street food at several locations.
  • Sobhy Kaber: the place for grilled meat.
  • El Fishawy: a historic café in Khan el-Khalili.

Eating safely

  • Don't drink tap water; buy bottled.
  • Take care with raw salads in budget places, as they may be rinsed in tap water.
  • Street food is usually fine when the stall is busy and the food is freshly cooked.
  • The health guide has more advice.

Frequently asked questions

What should I eat in Egypt?

Koshari (rice, lentils, pasta, chickpeas, fried onions and a tomato-vinegar sauce), ful medames, ta'ameya, molokhia, mahshi, hawawshi, fattah, feteer meshaltet and desserts such as umm Ali, basbousa and konafa.

How much does koshari cost in Egypt?

About 30–60 EGP a bowl. Abou Tarek and Koshary el-Tahrir in Cairo are the best-known places to try it.

Can you drink tap water in Egypt?

No. Stick to bottled water, and be careful with raw salads in cheap places, as they may have been washed in tap water.

Is street food safe in Egypt?

Generally yes, as long as the stall is busy and the food is freshly cooked and hot.

Can you get alcohol in Egypt?

Yes, but only in licensed venues. Most Egyptian dishes are halal.